Saturday, January 24, 2009
Photos for recent posts
I managed to find a computer with Picasa so have put some photos in albums. Of course I took hundreds so the selection is jsut a sample. Hope you like them. Links are next to the text.
End of Tour .... Lima
Two weeks since I last wrote something for this blog. The time has swept by filled with interesting things and many miles.
I wrote from Puno where we had been out to the floating islands of the Uros people on Lake Titikaka, and visits to two islands, Amantani and Taquile.
Our journey then took us to Cusco by road, and 8 hour journey up over the high pass at Urcos. A short stop here for a shopping opportunity (nice things but expensive). The land to the souteast of this pass was drier than later and it seemed a much poorer farming area. Once over the pass the land was greener, more fields with crops and, suddenly it seemed, an abundance of eucalyptus trees Tasmanian Blue Gum or Eucalyptus Globulus. Apparently these were introduced in the 19th century. They grow fast and provide building material, cooking fire wood and seem to be used in an attempt to prevent gully erosion which is severe in some parts of the moutains around Cusco.
We stayed in a very nice hotel Tika Wasi (House of Flowers) up in the old part of Cusco. Cusco was the centre of the Inca Empire. It has a fascinating and wonderful old part and a distinctly less good new sprawl. Further information here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cusco
The next day we took off in a local taxi for the hour´s drive over the hills at the back of Cusco to the Sacred Valleyof the Incas. On the way we stopped in the small local village of Chinchero for a pottery demonstration and lunch with a local family. I tried my hand a throwing a pot on a foot driven potter´s wheel ... not a huge success but interesting just the same. Many of the buildings around here - and I noticed this on the way up to Cusco - are made of mud bricks and often to two stories. This wonderful building material, sourced locally, has a very high thermal insulation value and is easy to use. Very sustainable. The choice of roofing material is interesting too ... around and beyond Puno it was often a grass thatch or corrigated iron, and nearer Cusco there are clay tiles. There are many new buildings of mud brick (Adobe in Spanish) alongside the use of concrete post and frame with kiln fired brick infil. These latter are not well finished and look really shoddy. I know which I prefer. http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/MudBrickAdobeInPeru#
In the afternoon we continued by miniubs to Ollantaytambo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ollantaytambo. This is an old Inca town with an itact inca street sytem complete with water channels. The Inca were very advanced water engineers. Sadly their once potable water is not so any more. The hotel was really nice, and I visited Temple Hill. The website gives some good pictures and here are my own http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/Ollantaytambo#
The next day (Tuesday 13 January) was the start of our four-day hike up the Inca Trail. We were taken by minibus to the start know as Km82 which is a stop on the train line from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the town underneath Machu Picchu. Here at Km82 we first met our Porters and Cook. We had previously filled small bags with not more than 6Kg of gear. There are now strict regulations on how much weight Porters can carry. The Porters are local men, small and wiry who rush ahead of us, erect the dining tent and next to it the kitchen tent. I was amazed. Tables and stools and steel cutlery. And what food. We feasted for the next 4 days. And each evening two-person tents were already erected when we got to the camp site. We were sharing, but as one girl dropped out at the end of Day 1 I got a tent to myself for the next 3 nights. All a bit luxurious really, but in truth it would have been hard carrying all our own gear in that high altitude without training. And it gives employment and considerable cash into the local ecomony. Local law now states that you must employ porters, and with a 500 person a day limit on the numbers allowed on the Inca Trail, going througha Tour Company is the best way. General photos from the trek are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/InkaTrail#
The flowers on the way are stunning and it was interesting to see some that grown domestically at home like begonias. A few pictures of flowers here http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/FlowersOnTheIncaTrail#
What followed was four days of the most stunning scenery. Day 1 was fairly easy, Day 2 chellening, Day 3 stunning and not hard walking, Day 4 was the remarkable walk down to Machu Picchu). The trail is especially steep on Day 2 which includes the climb up many steps to Abra Warmiwañuska (Dead Woman's Pass - at 4201m or 13,782ft one can see why it has its name. At this height walking for sea level dwellers is hard work. The air is thin). There is a good, accurate illustrated description of the trail here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inca_Trail#Inca_trail_to_Machu_Picchu - keep scrolling through the first section. And there is a good article on Machu Picchu here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_Picchu
The Inca Trail is studded with a number of other ruins of great interest, and much less visited http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/InkaRuins# . We had some wonderful times in other ruins, but the one that stands out for me was that of Wiña Wayna http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiñay Wayna. It was close to out last camp site and is exquisite. Not a large site it looks to me like a noblemans home complete with private temple. Anyway it was a good deal more peaceful than the camp site to which all 500 people on the trail had converged ready to set off the next morning for Machu Picchu.
All through the trail we were blessed with excellent weather. It is the wet season here, but we saw very little rain, althtough Machu Picchu itself was actually the worse weather we had with cloud rolling over it periodically during our too-brief visit. http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/MachuPicchu#
Down then into Aguas Calientes for lunch and the by train back to Ollantaytambo and from there by bus to Cusco.
Our final day in this area (Saturday 17 January) was for relaxing, shopping, sightseeing again.
The next day we flew from Cusco to Puerto Maldonaldo down at 200m above sea level.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Maldonado. The town does not have much to recommend it, but our resort, Corto Maltes, a few miles down river was beautiful. http://www.cortomaltes-amazonia.com/us/index_en.html The pictures are better than mine.
After lunch we went for a guided walk in the jungle with Lucy who knew her stuff. The leafe that paralyses the mouth (used by the locals to stop toothache) is disgusting and my tongue curls even at the memory of it. Brazil buts come in a cocnut-like pod which I hacked open with a machete, and then tried to shell the nut with same machete and nearly cut the end of my finger off. Not a good idea in mossie infested jungle. It has healed well.
That evening the boat trip sekking caymen (local crocs) was ruined by copious sickness over the side of the boat that was not sea-sickness. The next day was spent ahlf in the hammock and half asleep in bed with Montezuma's revenge (I know he was Aztec !) .... a more lovely place to be ill I cannot imagine. So I did not get to see too much of tropical Peru, but what I did see looks very like North Queensland.
The next day was spent mostly at Puerto Maldonaldo airport. Engines trouble then weather dealyed the inbound flight from Lima and Cusco. Our 11.30 left at 4.30pm - very late into Lima and thankfully Intrepid Tours Transport was there to bring us back to Inka Path Hotel.
Our final day together - me, Mick and Linda, Alicia and Janelle, and Michelle was that final sort of admin day ... shopping, posting stuff home, postcards, retrieving our stored gear and packing for the departures tomorrow.
Today is Saturday and they all left on Thursday. I have had a couple of days writing my journal, having fun on the local busses in Lima. This is an experience. Traffic is mad here and I wonder there are not more accidents. Haven't seen one yet.
And now this blog before I go to Panama tomorrow. Just added a few more pictures of Lima too http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/Lima#
Reflections ... Intrepid Tours are good. We had an introduction to the 3 areas of Peru - coast, mountains (Andes) and Tropical jungle. We have been with many local people and sampled quite a lot of local culture. The high point was the Inca Trail even more than Machu Picchu. After 3 days in Lima I am ready to move on. The rains apparently come in February and the city needs a good wash.
But its been a great adventure and one I am seriously pleased to have done. More info here http://www.intrepidtravel.com/trips/GSD
I wrote from Puno where we had been out to the floating islands of the Uros people on Lake Titikaka, and visits to two islands, Amantani and Taquile.
Our journey then took us to Cusco by road, and 8 hour journey up over the high pass at Urcos. A short stop here for a shopping opportunity (nice things but expensive). The land to the souteast of this pass was drier than later and it seemed a much poorer farming area. Once over the pass the land was greener, more fields with crops and, suddenly it seemed, an abundance of eucalyptus trees Tasmanian Blue Gum or Eucalyptus Globulus. Apparently these were introduced in the 19th century. They grow fast and provide building material, cooking fire wood and seem to be used in an attempt to prevent gully erosion which is severe in some parts of the moutains around Cusco.
We stayed in a very nice hotel Tika Wasi (House of Flowers) up in the old part of Cusco. Cusco was the centre of the Inca Empire. It has a fascinating and wonderful old part and a distinctly less good new sprawl. Further information here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cusco
The next day we took off in a local taxi for the hour´s drive over the hills at the back of Cusco to the Sacred Valleyof the Incas. On the way we stopped in the small local village of Chinchero for a pottery demonstration and lunch with a local family. I tried my hand a throwing a pot on a foot driven potter´s wheel ... not a huge success but interesting just the same. Many of the buildings around here - and I noticed this on the way up to Cusco - are made of mud bricks and often to two stories. This wonderful building material, sourced locally, has a very high thermal insulation value and is easy to use. Very sustainable. The choice of roofing material is interesting too ... around and beyond Puno it was often a grass thatch or corrigated iron, and nearer Cusco there are clay tiles. There are many new buildings of mud brick (Adobe in Spanish) alongside the use of concrete post and frame with kiln fired brick infil. These latter are not well finished and look really shoddy. I know which I prefer. http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/MudBrickAdobeInPeru#
In the afternoon we continued by miniubs to Ollantaytambo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ollantaytambo. This is an old Inca town with an itact inca street sytem complete with water channels. The Inca were very advanced water engineers. Sadly their once potable water is not so any more. The hotel was really nice, and I visited Temple Hill. The website gives some good pictures and here are my own http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/Ollantaytambo#
The next day (Tuesday 13 January) was the start of our four-day hike up the Inca Trail. We were taken by minibus to the start know as Km82 which is a stop on the train line from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the town underneath Machu Picchu. Here at Km82 we first met our Porters and Cook. We had previously filled small bags with not more than 6Kg of gear. There are now strict regulations on how much weight Porters can carry. The Porters are local men, small and wiry who rush ahead of us, erect the dining tent and next to it the kitchen tent. I was amazed. Tables and stools and steel cutlery. And what food. We feasted for the next 4 days. And each evening two-person tents were already erected when we got to the camp site. We were sharing, but as one girl dropped out at the end of Day 1 I got a tent to myself for the next 3 nights. All a bit luxurious really, but in truth it would have been hard carrying all our own gear in that high altitude without training. And it gives employment and considerable cash into the local ecomony. Local law now states that you must employ porters, and with a 500 person a day limit on the numbers allowed on the Inca Trail, going througha Tour Company is the best way. General photos from the trek are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/InkaTrail#
The flowers on the way are stunning and it was interesting to see some that grown domestically at home like begonias. A few pictures of flowers here http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/FlowersOnTheIncaTrail#
What followed was four days of the most stunning scenery. Day 1 was fairly easy, Day 2 chellening, Day 3 stunning and not hard walking, Day 4 was the remarkable walk down to Machu Picchu). The trail is especially steep on Day 2 which includes the climb up many steps to Abra Warmiwañuska (Dead Woman's Pass - at 4201m or 13,782ft one can see why it has its name. At this height walking for sea level dwellers is hard work. The air is thin). There is a good, accurate illustrated description of the trail here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inca_Trail#Inca_trail_to_Machu_Picchu - keep scrolling through the first section. And there is a good article on Machu Picchu here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_Picchu
The Inca Trail is studded with a number of other ruins of great interest, and much less visited http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/InkaRuins# . We had some wonderful times in other ruins, but the one that stands out for me was that of Wiña Wayna http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiñay Wayna. It was close to out last camp site and is exquisite. Not a large site it looks to me like a noblemans home complete with private temple. Anyway it was a good deal more peaceful than the camp site to which all 500 people on the trail had converged ready to set off the next morning for Machu Picchu.
All through the trail we were blessed with excellent weather. It is the wet season here, but we saw very little rain, althtough Machu Picchu itself was actually the worse weather we had with cloud rolling over it periodically during our too-brief visit. http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/MachuPicchu#
Down then into Aguas Calientes for lunch and the by train back to Ollantaytambo and from there by bus to Cusco.
Our final day in this area (Saturday 17 January) was for relaxing, shopping, sightseeing again.
The next day we flew from Cusco to Puerto Maldonaldo down at 200m above sea level.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Maldonado. The town does not have much to recommend it, but our resort, Corto Maltes, a few miles down river was beautiful. http://www.cortomaltes-amazonia.com/us/index_en.html The pictures are better than mine.
After lunch we went for a guided walk in the jungle with Lucy who knew her stuff. The leafe that paralyses the mouth (used by the locals to stop toothache) is disgusting and my tongue curls even at the memory of it. Brazil buts come in a cocnut-like pod which I hacked open with a machete, and then tried to shell the nut with same machete and nearly cut the end of my finger off. Not a good idea in mossie infested jungle. It has healed well.
That evening the boat trip sekking caymen (local crocs) was ruined by copious sickness over the side of the boat that was not sea-sickness. The next day was spent ahlf in the hammock and half asleep in bed with Montezuma's revenge (I know he was Aztec !) .... a more lovely place to be ill I cannot imagine. So I did not get to see too much of tropical Peru, but what I did see looks very like North Queensland.
The next day was spent mostly at Puerto Maldonaldo airport. Engines trouble then weather dealyed the inbound flight from Lima and Cusco. Our 11.30 left at 4.30pm - very late into Lima and thankfully Intrepid Tours Transport was there to bring us back to Inka Path Hotel.
Our final day together - me, Mick and Linda, Alicia and Janelle, and Michelle was that final sort of admin day ... shopping, posting stuff home, postcards, retrieving our stored gear and packing for the departures tomorrow.
Today is Saturday and they all left on Thursday. I have had a couple of days writing my journal, having fun on the local busses in Lima. This is an experience. Traffic is mad here and I wonder there are not more accidents. Haven't seen one yet.
And now this blog before I go to Panama tomorrow. Just added a few more pictures of Lima too http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/Lima#
Reflections ... Intrepid Tours are good. We had an introduction to the 3 areas of Peru - coast, mountains (Andes) and Tropical jungle. We have been with many local people and sampled quite a lot of local culture. The high point was the Inca Trail even more than Machu Picchu. After 3 days in Lima I am ready to move on. The rains apparently come in February and the city needs a good wash.
But its been a great adventure and one I am seriously pleased to have done. More info here http://www.intrepidtravel.com/trips/GSD
Saturday, January 10, 2009
High Up in the Andes
Note : I have cannot get my photos on this Blog at the moment, but have found some interesting web=stie to illustrate some of the places. There are some good photos on these sites.
I am writing this from hotel Munay Tambo in Puno, the city on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. http://www.puno.com/ and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puno
Here we are at 3,860 metres (12,421 feet in old money) which is pretty high. The air is thin here and we are closer to the sun - red faces abound even on the dark skinned Peruvians. Undue exertion causes panting and the first night here I had a headache. This is normal adjustment to high altitude. We are six on this tour - all from Sydney although myself and Michelle originate from England (she from Leeds). Linda (of the couple travelling) is suffering badly from altitude sickness but keeping going.
After a 2 hour flight up here over stunning mountains we spent the afternoon settling in to Puno. This is a bigish city of mostly low buildings around two main squares connected by the main street, the usual mecca for turistas.
I took a tour to see some Pre- and Inca ruined tower tombs at Sillustani.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sillustani and http://www.ancientenergies.com/sillustani.htm and http://www.go2peru.com/pun_foto5.htm
Most are in ruins destroyed by lightning strike. One has been partially restored to show their height. They were quite magnificent and only for the aristocracy. Your lot as a servant was an involuntary journey to join your master. You, however, were buried in the ground while they got thr full mumification treatment. On the way back we visited authentic homestead complete with ooh-aah baby Lama outside. It was pretty primitive and I suspected they may not actually live there now. The nearby town looked more appealing. Still very interesting to see how they used tolive. A hard subsistence life.
That evening we had a very tourist dinner just because we were tired and it was close. An early start the next day.
Up at 6.30 and away in tricycle rickshaws to the port on the Lake. Onboard the boat our new guide told us that in Inca TITI means Puma and KAKA means jsut what you would think. So they named it Puma DooDoo ... very odd for such a lovely lake. It is the highest navigable lake in the world and fresh water too. Our two hour boat trip under a clear sky took us to Amantani Island via the floating islands inhabited by the Uros people. Not long ago these were a declining lot but with government encourangement and tourist dollars their number has increased to a community of about 3,000. The islands are made by the Uros from sections of reed bed cut into squares and tied together. On top beds of reeds are laid to a depth of about a metre at first. Then houses are constructed from reeds and life continues. Each island may last for up to 20 years as each year new layers are added until the island is seriously rotting apart. Then they start a new island. They make beautiful clothes and clothes which we buy... and they take us for trips in their traditional reed boats and we come and look at them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uros and http://indian-cultures.com/Cultures/uros.html
Then on to Amantani Island, the largest island in the Lake. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amantani
We were put to stay with families in their houses. Our host was Pimitiwa, husband Raoul, children Jessica, Franklin, Brian and Janet. They have TV ......
Most of the houses on the island are made from mud brick (adobe) with corrigated iron roofs. A few have some concreting. This is a very local and sustainable way of building. Food is grown in terraces and most root vegetables. Rice, oil, sugar and stuff that cannot be grown comes expensively from the mainland so we brought some as gifts. There were some sheep kept in pens. Against this traditional life comes the satellite dishes and photovoltaic cells, and much plastic - bags and bottles everywhere. And up on a high point a football field with a concrete stand. This island also has electricity.
We walked in the afternoon up to the high point on the island - something of a struggle in the thin air. But the view was worth it. The top of this hill (PanchaPapa) is dedicated to the sun and is an enclosed square ceremonial site where the Shaman still performs annual rituals. Christianity has a light hold on this island. The top is 4,100 metres or 13,000 feet. Lake Puma DooDoo is very large.
The day was finished off by a display of local dancing and wind-pipe music. It seemed a little contrived, sadly.
Our night was disturbed by a heavy rainstorm that presented a washed world in the morning sun.
Farwells to Pimitiwa and family and then off to Taquile Island http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taquile
An altogether more prosperous island, and this one well covered in Eucalyptus trees . Amantani had some too. I am led to believe these came to Peru in teh 19th century and thrive in these altititudes where others do not. There are indigenous trees but these are few indeed. The Aussie gum suits perfectly, grows fast and well, and is providing an increasing source of wood for cooking and building.
A long, slow and very enjoyable walk across the island kept reminding me of Greece - the same terracing, the same steep sides to the island and views across a clear blue sea to the mainland. Small children ran asking for Soles (pronounced Sol-es) or trying to sell knitted goods or woven bracelets. The women do this too by the side of the path sitting with their wares on their coloured woven sheets which, on finishing business, gather the goods and become and sack to carry them on the back.
Again the buildings are mostly adobe - the main square on the island (which is home to severawl communities) is quite grand. One side has the ´town hall´and the other a two story warehouse for knitted and woven goods. Both these buildings are concrete framed.
After lunch in a high resturant that reminded me of one I ate at years ago on Ios, we descended 530 steps to the small harbour and the two hour boat ride back to Puno. The wind had died down so our voyage was much calmer than this morning´s.
Puno has been alive this evening with a huge street parade of brass bands, marching bands (it was almost funny watching military officers line-dancing as a group in the parade) and fire crackers going off to celebrate the festival of the Local Virgin, she being parraded around on a float carried by more military officers.
We, meanwhile, wove our way through this noisy mayhem and found our Balcones de Peru restaurant and were entertained by a very good Andean Pipe band and really excellent dancing in five sets of quite different constumes and dances - two couples did rapid changes to achieve this. And we ate guinea pig. It tastes like duck, in case you ever get hungry enough for your pet. Tasty though it was I won´t be in a hurry to eat it again. My conscience was severly torn anyway but when in Rome ....
Tomorrow we go on up to Cusco, gateway to the Inca Trail for Machu Picchu.
I am writing this from hotel Munay Tambo in Puno, the city on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. http://www.puno.com/ and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puno
Here we are at 3,860 metres (12,421 feet in old money) which is pretty high. The air is thin here and we are closer to the sun - red faces abound even on the dark skinned Peruvians. Undue exertion causes panting and the first night here I had a headache. This is normal adjustment to high altitude. We are six on this tour - all from Sydney although myself and Michelle originate from England (she from Leeds). Linda (of the couple travelling) is suffering badly from altitude sickness but keeping going.
After a 2 hour flight up here over stunning mountains we spent the afternoon settling in to Puno. This is a bigish city of mostly low buildings around two main squares connected by the main street, the usual mecca for turistas.
I took a tour to see some Pre- and Inca ruined tower tombs at Sillustani.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sillustani and http://www.ancientenergies.com/sillustani.htm and http://www.go2peru.com/pun_foto5.htm
Most are in ruins destroyed by lightning strike. One has been partially restored to show their height. They were quite magnificent and only for the aristocracy. Your lot as a servant was an involuntary journey to join your master. You, however, were buried in the ground while they got thr full mumification treatment. On the way back we visited authentic homestead complete with ooh-aah baby Lama outside. It was pretty primitive and I suspected they may not actually live there now. The nearby town looked more appealing. Still very interesting to see how they used tolive. A hard subsistence life.
That evening we had a very tourist dinner just because we were tired and it was close. An early start the next day.
Up at 6.30 and away in tricycle rickshaws to the port on the Lake. Onboard the boat our new guide told us that in Inca TITI means Puma and KAKA means jsut what you would think. So they named it Puma DooDoo ... very odd for such a lovely lake. It is the highest navigable lake in the world and fresh water too. Our two hour boat trip under a clear sky took us to Amantani Island via the floating islands inhabited by the Uros people. Not long ago these were a declining lot but with government encourangement and tourist dollars their number has increased to a community of about 3,000. The islands are made by the Uros from sections of reed bed cut into squares and tied together. On top beds of reeds are laid to a depth of about a metre at first. Then houses are constructed from reeds and life continues. Each island may last for up to 20 years as each year new layers are added until the island is seriously rotting apart. Then they start a new island. They make beautiful clothes and clothes which we buy... and they take us for trips in their traditional reed boats and we come and look at them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uros and http://indian-cultures.com/Cultures/uros.html
Then on to Amantani Island, the largest island in the Lake. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amantani
We were put to stay with families in their houses. Our host was Pimitiwa, husband Raoul, children Jessica, Franklin, Brian and Janet. They have TV ......
Most of the houses on the island are made from mud brick (adobe) with corrigated iron roofs. A few have some concreting. This is a very local and sustainable way of building. Food is grown in terraces and most root vegetables. Rice, oil, sugar and stuff that cannot be grown comes expensively from the mainland so we brought some as gifts. There were some sheep kept in pens. Against this traditional life comes the satellite dishes and photovoltaic cells, and much plastic - bags and bottles everywhere. And up on a high point a football field with a concrete stand. This island also has electricity.
We walked in the afternoon up to the high point on the island - something of a struggle in the thin air. But the view was worth it. The top of this hill (PanchaPapa) is dedicated to the sun and is an enclosed square ceremonial site where the Shaman still performs annual rituals. Christianity has a light hold on this island. The top is 4,100 metres or 13,000 feet. Lake Puma DooDoo is very large.
The day was finished off by a display of local dancing and wind-pipe music. It seemed a little contrived, sadly.
Our night was disturbed by a heavy rainstorm that presented a washed world in the morning sun.
Farwells to Pimitiwa and family and then off to Taquile Island http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taquile
An altogether more prosperous island, and this one well covered in Eucalyptus trees . Amantani had some too. I am led to believe these came to Peru in teh 19th century and thrive in these altititudes where others do not. There are indigenous trees but these are few indeed. The Aussie gum suits perfectly, grows fast and well, and is providing an increasing source of wood for cooking and building.
A long, slow and very enjoyable walk across the island kept reminding me of Greece - the same terracing, the same steep sides to the island and views across a clear blue sea to the mainland. Small children ran asking for Soles (pronounced Sol-es) or trying to sell knitted goods or woven bracelets. The women do this too by the side of the path sitting with their wares on their coloured woven sheets which, on finishing business, gather the goods and become and sack to carry them on the back.
Again the buildings are mostly adobe - the main square on the island (which is home to severawl communities) is quite grand. One side has the ´town hall´and the other a two story warehouse for knitted and woven goods. Both these buildings are concrete framed.
After lunch in a high resturant that reminded me of one I ate at years ago on Ios, we descended 530 steps to the small harbour and the two hour boat ride back to Puno. The wind had died down so our voyage was much calmer than this morning´s.
Puno has been alive this evening with a huge street parade of brass bands, marching bands (it was almost funny watching military officers line-dancing as a group in the parade) and fire crackers going off to celebrate the festival of the Local Virgin, she being parraded around on a float carried by more military officers.
We, meanwhile, wove our way through this noisy mayhem and found our Balcones de Peru restaurant and were entertained by a very good Andean Pipe band and really excellent dancing in five sets of quite different constumes and dances - two couples did rapid changes to achieve this. And we ate guinea pig. It tastes like duck, in case you ever get hungry enough for your pet. Tasty though it was I won´t be in a hurry to eat it again. My conscience was severly torn anyway but when in Rome ....
Tomorrow we go on up to Cusco, gateway to the Inca Trail for Machu Picchu.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
A day in Lima
Warm, a hazy sun, very dusty and heavy smog, and the streets filled with honking traffic which winds its way amonst itself in a good natured way. It seems to me that honking is just common practice and reminds me much of Rome. The same smell in the air too - that hot, dusty, dry and smoky smell.
I am staying in the old part of Lima - lots of really fine colonial architecture, enormous church with overblown rococo decoration and what seems to me an overload of Christs on Crosses in agony. Also numerous nativity scenes - more than one in two churches I looked in.
The two main squares at Plaza Mayor which has the Presidential Palace at the north side and cathedral and archbishop´s palace to the east, and Plaza San Martin. Both are surrounded by large grand classical buildings.
Vulture like birds soar in the air. The river Rio Rica is a filthy ditch with a dribble of water and these vultures hopping about in the shallows.
I spent a happy day wandering about. The Limanese are quite short so it makes a change to be able to look over them to watch the mid-day changing of the guard outside the President´s Palace, and then a procession of Three Wise Men on horseback accompanied by a small mounted band. Of course - today is 6 Jan and the Feast of the Epiphany. These people take this seriously with public display.
I had a typical lunch of Cerveche (raw fish, soup and squid rings) - quite good but a bit strong on the chillies.
The streets are busy most of the time and especially in the evenings - very Italian like the evening passagiata. The main squares are thronged - the Plaza Mayor alight with various shapes in many colours.
I went to a wonderful exhibition at the Reserve Bank of Peru of indigenous art and artefacts - some of the pottery dates back to 500BC and rivals anything found in the west or middle east. And the gold, silver and copper stuff is truly magnificent.
Tomorrow the tour begins so I will not be reporting again until after Macchu Pichu.
I like Lima except for the pollution ....
Photos here : http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/Lima?feat=directlink
I am staying in the old part of Lima - lots of really fine colonial architecture, enormous church with overblown rococo decoration and what seems to me an overload of Christs on Crosses in agony. Also numerous nativity scenes - more than one in two churches I looked in.
The two main squares at Plaza Mayor which has the Presidential Palace at the north side and cathedral and archbishop´s palace to the east, and Plaza San Martin. Both are surrounded by large grand classical buildings.
Vulture like birds soar in the air. The river Rio Rica is a filthy ditch with a dribble of water and these vultures hopping about in the shallows.
I spent a happy day wandering about. The Limanese are quite short so it makes a change to be able to look over them to watch the mid-day changing of the guard outside the President´s Palace, and then a procession of Three Wise Men on horseback accompanied by a small mounted band. Of course - today is 6 Jan and the Feast of the Epiphany. These people take this seriously with public display.
I had a typical lunch of Cerveche (raw fish, soup and squid rings) - quite good but a bit strong on the chillies.
The streets are busy most of the time and especially in the evenings - very Italian like the evening passagiata. The main squares are thronged - the Plaza Mayor alight with various shapes in many colours.
I went to a wonderful exhibition at the Reserve Bank of Peru of indigenous art and artefacts - some of the pottery dates back to 500BC and rivals anything found in the west or middle east. And the gold, silver and copper stuff is truly magnificent.
Tomorrow the tour begins so I will not be reporting again until after Macchu Pichu.
I like Lima except for the pollution ....
Photos here : http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/Lima?feat=directlink
Monday, January 5, 2009
BsAs
Two days is long enough to get the main sites in Buenas Aires and not nearly long enough to enjoy. I found it a fascinating city - actually quite quiet at this time of year - and a great city to wander around. Being flat it is very walkable, and a city on a grid it is easy to get around without confusion.
My very dear friend Gustavo gave me a list of things to do and marked up a map so that when I arrived I had no problems getting around - and we realised my hotel was very central which was perfect. Everything within walking distance.
The city is arranged around two major streets - the multi laned Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest street in the world) runs north-south and Avenida de Mayo runs east-west. At the junction of both is the huge white Obelisco which rivals the Washington monument in Washington DC. I saw it best at night.
Highlights for me were the Cathedral (looks more like the Pantheon from the outside, something I rather liked), Cabildo (the original town hall where the public meeting to consider independence from Spain took place 25 May 1810) both of which sit on the edge of Paza de Mayo at the west end and form a counter-point to the grand Casa Rosada, the President´s residence which is as impressive as Buckingham Palace and rather better than the White House. On the river side (to the east) is an enormous and flamboyant statue with Cristóbal Colón (Columbus) on top. The giant flag of Argentina waves impressively in the light breeze.
I walked and walked - went up to Palermo Soho, now a rising bohemian area, wandered on Sunday morning to Recoleta and paid homage at the Mausoleum of Evita, sauntered through the huge flea market of San Telmo (after lunch with Jamie Taylor, an old friend and former colleague at GMFA in London). This is truly a bargain hunters paradise - I have not seen so many old bits and pieces for ages, and in good nick too - a market stall with several wind-up gramaphone players with those big ¨His Masters´Voice¨ horns. And heaps and heaps of Mate pots. I did not get to try this Argentine drink as apparently you have to have your own Mate pot.
And finally yesterday afternoon I was taken to the large park and wild area formed by land-fill when the Motorway destroyed several suburbs. This landfill has created an wildlife reservation between the city and the Rio de la Plata and is very popular at the weekend. The beach on the river is actually made up of building rubble....which is different.
So thank you Jamie and Pedro for yesterday .... thank you Juan for welcoming me on my first night in Beunos Aires for a memorable visit - and most of all thanks to Gustavo for his advice .....
Next time I go I shall have learnt some spanish though.... Gusty please help !
photos are here : http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/WanderingAlbatross?authkey=G8b4gDJV2o0&feat=directlink
My very dear friend Gustavo gave me a list of things to do and marked up a map so that when I arrived I had no problems getting around - and we realised my hotel was very central which was perfect. Everything within walking distance.
The city is arranged around two major streets - the multi laned Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest street in the world) runs north-south and Avenida de Mayo runs east-west. At the junction of both is the huge white Obelisco which rivals the Washington monument in Washington DC. I saw it best at night.
Highlights for me were the Cathedral (looks more like the Pantheon from the outside, something I rather liked), Cabildo (the original town hall where the public meeting to consider independence from Spain took place 25 May 1810) both of which sit on the edge of Paza de Mayo at the west end and form a counter-point to the grand Casa Rosada, the President´s residence which is as impressive as Buckingham Palace and rather better than the White House. On the river side (to the east) is an enormous and flamboyant statue with Cristóbal Colón (Columbus) on top. The giant flag of Argentina waves impressively in the light breeze.
I walked and walked - went up to Palermo Soho, now a rising bohemian area, wandered on Sunday morning to Recoleta and paid homage at the Mausoleum of Evita, sauntered through the huge flea market of San Telmo (after lunch with Jamie Taylor, an old friend and former colleague at GMFA in London). This is truly a bargain hunters paradise - I have not seen so many old bits and pieces for ages, and in good nick too - a market stall with several wind-up gramaphone players with those big ¨His Masters´Voice¨ horns. And heaps and heaps of Mate pots. I did not get to try this Argentine drink as apparently you have to have your own Mate pot.
And finally yesterday afternoon I was taken to the large park and wild area formed by land-fill when the Motorway destroyed several suburbs. This landfill has created an wildlife reservation between the city and the Rio de la Plata and is very popular at the weekend. The beach on the river is actually made up of building rubble....which is different.
So thank you Jamie and Pedro for yesterday .... thank you Juan for welcoming me on my first night in Beunos Aires for a memorable visit - and most of all thanks to Gustavo for his advice .....
Next time I go I shall have learnt some spanish though.... Gusty please help !
photos are here : http://picasaweb.google.com/Stephen.Couling/WanderingAlbatross?authkey=G8b4gDJV2o0&feat=directlink
Friday, January 2, 2009
First stop - Buenos Aires
First leg done - Sydney to Buenos Aires. A long flight onan old Airbus 737-300 ... it is ages since I have flown on an aircraft that did not have individual screens and mulit-channel entertainment. Hoorah for my new iPod - that and ¨Mad, Bad and Dangerous to know¨ Ranulph Fiennes autobiograhy (a must read for adventurers) and some sleep and the journey seemed to go quickly enough. We had a short stop in Auckland.
As I have not been here long I cannot comment much on BsAs yet, but the Paris to Dakar Rally has been relocated to South America and has started - BsAs to Santiago. Avenido de Mayo is closed and lined with noisy Argentians having a lot of fun. It is noisy and lively as you would expect from Latinos !
So after a long day - Argentina is 14 hours behind Sydney to today has been 30 hours long - I think I might away to bed for freshness tomorrow.
As I have not been here long I cannot comment much on BsAs yet, but the Paris to Dakar Rally has been relocated to South America and has started - BsAs to Santiago. Avenido de Mayo is closed and lined with noisy Argentians having a lot of fun. It is noisy and lively as you would expect from Latinos !
So after a long day - Argentina is 14 hours behind Sydney to today has been 30 hours long - I think I might away to bed for freshness tomorrow.
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